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In this lecture, I'm going to walk you through the circuit schematic for the Tyrolean controller of

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this project, and of course, I have drawn the schematic using Kit Cat and I've also used it to design

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the PSP that I'm going to show you in a later lecture in this section.

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The main component of the circuit and in this schematic is you can see is the death itself.

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I am using the kid with the 38 PIN configuration, which is a very common version of the E.S.P 32 deficit.

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You can easily find it on eBay or other retailers on the Web on the breadboard.

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I have tested the exact same circuit with the 30 pin version of the E.S.P 32 deaf kids.

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So you can use whichever you want as long as the pins that you are connecting to the various peripherals

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are the same.

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So we've got the 38 PIN E.S.P 32 deficit in the middle.

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Most of the pins are unused and I'm not exposing them.

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Even in the PSP that I've designed again as part of this project that I'm going to talk about in a separate

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lecture on the left side of the connectors for the sensors up here on J5 is that the 22 Connector and

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Termini is a screw terminal, as you can see from the schematic, using a version of the DHC 22, which

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is got a special casing that I can install inside the terrarium and get the air temperature and the

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humidity.

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So it's got three panes ground.

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This is C and I'm connecting the Terrapin to Jupiter 25.

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Right.

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Then we've got the moisture sensor.

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The moisture sensor comes in a module with four pins and I've got a simple header, a female header

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on the B itself to which the module is connected to three panes are used.

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The second pin here is on use of court and unused mark on it just in case.

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At some point in the future, I want to use an environment sensor like the to the BMY or PMP 280 of

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made a provision for a connector for this sensor here for the ISO, which the protocol, although I

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did not really use it, at least in the current version of the project.

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Then you've got a bunch of indicators, ladies, I've got one for the power just to indicate when power

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is applied and I've got another couple of these that show me various types of activity.

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For example, the circuit will blink these LEDs when there is a temperature, humidity or motor operation

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update.

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So that can visibly see what is going on.

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Now, down here, I've got a couple of circuits, just voltage devices to give me a voltage indicator.

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This one here is for the battery and this one here is for the MCU, the microcontroller unit.

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Now for the MCU, I've made a provision to be able to power it either from the same power source as

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the battery or from its own three point three fourth power source.

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So depending on how you want to power the controller, you can just short these two jumpers and you'll

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be able to provide appropriate power.

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If he's a jumper wire to shorten these two terminals, then you'll be powering your MCU from the external

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five-fold pin.

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Otherwise it will be powered by the three point three volt pin.

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Let's move over to the right side of the dog.

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Going to zoom out a little so we can see the whole lot.

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OK, here we go.

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So there's a couple of different ways to power the circuit.

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I've got the barrel jacks, which up here and also crude terminals where you connect motor battery to

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the motor battery is meant to provide at least five volts of power, but no more than nine volts, which

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will feed directly into the motor.

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You can see that the crude terminals here fall is where you connect the motor.

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The motor, of course, is what powers the pump.

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Alternatively, what you can do is you can also use the same power source that powers the motor to also

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power the microcontroller unit.

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So there's a jumper here that can enable that connectivity.

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Apart from that, whether you use the J3 connector for the motor power source or the barrels, which

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is the same thing, you can use one or the other, but of course, not both at the same time.

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Below that, we've got the simple circuit for the motor that powers the water pump.

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I've got a Shawqi diode here and a small capacitor.

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The capacitor is here to try and dampen down any electrical noise that comes from the motor while it's

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spinning.

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And then this short circuit diode prevents back Karyn's from passing onto the rest of the circuit when

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the motor is no longer powered by just is free spinning as it's slowing down.

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That could produce current, that can damage other part of the circuit and especially the microcontroller.

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So you've got this diode here to prevent that from happening.

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And then down the bottom of this part of the circuit, we've got a tip.

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One hundred and twenty two transistor, which I'm using as a switch.

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The combination of the 330 ohm and the 20 kilogram pulled down resistor right here allow us to turn

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this switch on with a very small amount of Charente coming from Tapio three to.

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And that's about it with this circle, as you can see, it's fairly simple, you can easily implement

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it on a breadboard or you can go for a proper piece of be designed.

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That is, as I said, and I'm going to show you what that looks like in a later lecture in this section.