So you've already seen the schematic that makes up the circuit for the terrorism controller and I've
also shown you how to implement it using a mini breadboard or a larger sized breadboard.
Now let's have a look at the PC version of the same circuit.
So here in Kickout, switch over to BCB New and the PC be for this circuit looks, I guess it's almost
a perfect rectangle.
So it's a shape that I think makes it easy to create a box.
So I wanted to go for this shape in the middle.
It's going to clean up a few things, actually show you the 3D version.
The 3D view of the PCB looks like this in the middle of the bay, of all of the components that the
user will not have to interact with, and as you'll see in a minute, that the ESB 32 deficit will be
on its head and will cover all of these resistors, capacitors in the tip, 122, of course, a tip
122.
You can bend its pins down so that it's flat on the PSP.
They won't be taking any space down the bottom of got the input of the barrel connector for External
Power, the connector for the DHT 22 with a long wires and then the battery and the pump motor crude
terminals as well.
And on the other side of the indicator, the jumpers, so that we can get the appropriate voltage to
measure for the MCU.
And the moisture sensor is plugged in here.
The only difference from what you see in this 3D representation versus the actual one is that this connector
is a female header on the other side.
I've got instructions on how to use the compass here.
Let's have a look at the actual PSP now on my bench.
So here's the implementation of the circuit in the form of a PC B and looks like this.
It's quite almost a rectangular sibiya, having designed a case for it yet, but will be doing so as
well as you can see it again.
So we're seeing the first part of this lecture is that they decided to put all of the linear components
are basically the things that the user would not be interacting with in the middle.
And then I've got the two headers along the sides where I can mount the EU, the two with three pins
on it, and the rest are just inputs and outputs for the indicators of the header for the moisture sensor,
the barrel jack here for power input, the jumpers and the screw terminals for the motor and its battery.
And also should point out that the schematic and the PITIABLY implementation and design that I showed
you in the first part of this lecture is version two.
This is vision one.
And I haven't got version two yet.
The main difference between version one and version two is that in version two, I've also got provision
for the DHT 22 cents.
I've got an additional screw terminal for that.
All right.
Now let's have a look at the version of the bill with the components attached to it in populated areas.
They can see in the middle of code or the linear components.
There is the tip 122 nicely fitting in the space available for it.
I've got the resistors and the diet here for the motor on the other side.
And then my thirty eight pin is P 32 module fits just nicely on it.
You can see that of course the jumper wire, this is the, the sensor that did twenty two cents.
So I had to do a hack here because this is version one is a set and at that point I had not decided
to use it due to twenty two.
And I decided that a little later after I decided to include it to the 22 sensor, I redesigned or altered
the board so that its screw terminal three pens would go down here where now we've got the IS and then
I move the jumpers up on the top side.
And that allowed me to actually make everything fit without changing the dimensions of the board in
this implementation.
I'm simply going to attach my board right there.
Gently, without moving any of the wires right out.
Snaps in place.
It looks like this.
I remove that temporarily so that I can stop that one, just kill.
OK, and then the sensor goes back on.
And.
Put the phone back on to this terminal here to 22.
All right, so it's a little hack, but it works.
Now, I'm going to redo this once I receive the Bisbee's from BCB way on the motor.
I have attached a large capacitor to use as bypass, just providing a little bit of extra power when
the motor starts to spin.
And then on the other side, I have also saw that a smaller ceramic capacitor to help me with noise
so that we don't have too much interference.
I discovered by testing that when the motor spins, especially this one, not the actual pump, it's
a little smaller, but this one when it spins, I discovered that it was causing interference to the
DC 22 sensor so it wasn't able to take readings out of it.
So that's why I attached this ceramic capacitor.
It helps with a noise on the data line.
All right.
So that's all there is about the pitcher beer.
I'm going to plug it in now to show you how it works, so.
You go, it's up and running.
Now, let's say that the soil needs a bit of moisture.
So if the soil humidity drops below a certain level that I have already programmed in our note read,
I'm going to simulate that.
But simply taking the sensor out of the soil back about half until the motor begins to spin.
For the sense of back into the soil.
It's gone above a threshold, so actually that the reading dropped below the threshold, so the motor
stopped spinning, couldn't take it out again.
The motor starts simulating water now going back into.
The terrarium.
All right, so the motor will operate for up to five seconds before a new value is read and then evaluated
to decide whether the pump should continue to operate for a bit longer.
I also want to show you what the water pump looks like and how it works.
So this is a submersible water pump.
It operates at around five votes.
It can go up to maybe nine without any issues.
And of course, the more voltage she can provide, the faster the motor inside this pump spins to,
the more volume of water it can move around this part here.
This is the intake and this is where the water comes out of.
And you just need to connect it to a hose like this.
You can purchase this online to the length that you want and attach it to the outlet.
Then you just submerge the pump into the water reserve while the lead is not that long and you will
need to extend it, which is what I've done here so that you don't have to have your baby directly next
to the pump and the water reservoir.
So I'm going to give you a little demonstration.
I have connected the pump to my battery power supply.
That's just six votes in here.
There are four batteries alkaline, so that gives me about six votes when they're fully charged and
fresh batteries.
I'm going to switch it off.
Normally, I would put the hose into the terrarium, but of course, it's already water and that would
flooded.
So I'm going to recycle the water back into the job that contains it.
So I'll switch it on and there's a water coming out.
The sequence is quite a bit of volume there.
There's a lot of water coming out.
And that's why you need to be very careful when you're actually experimenting and working with this
to to make sure that the pump is turned off even in case where, for example, you lose power in your
in your controller or there is no communication between the controller and no read.
And in my sketch for the SB 32, I've got a failsafe way.
If there's no communication after five seconds, then the pump will automatically turn off.
So you go.
This is all there is to it.
Normally, once the testing and prototyping phase is finished, you will connect the wires, the power,
the pump directly to your PC.
Be where right now I've got the motor connected to.